Two things to check on the back
Universal remotes are the cheap fix for rentals, lost originals and drawers full of mystery clickers — but two details decide whether the next ten minutes go smoothly.
Find the code-list version
Open the battery compartment. GE and similar remotes have a code list version printed inside (CL3, CL4, CL5…) — the right code for your TV depends on it, so note it before hunting codes online. And put fresh batteries in while you are there; a weak universal remote fails in confusing ways.
Know the limitation: infrared only
Almost every cheap universal remote is IR. It will run TVs, soundbars and cable boxes beautifully — but not streaming sticks that use radio instead, like the Fire TV Stick. For those, the original remote or the brand’s phone app is the answer.
Have the device on
Code search works by firing power codes until the device reacts — so the TV or soundbar must be on when you start, and you must watch it the whole time.
Auto code search (GE and most others)
If you have the device’s 4-digit code from the manual or the maker’s site, direct entry is faster: hold Setup until the light stays on, tap the device key, key in the code. No code? The auto search on the right finds it — it just takes patience, because the remote fires codes in batches and your only feedback is the device reacting.
RCA remotes differ slightly: hold the device button, then hold Power until the light blinks off and on, release both, and tap Power repeatedly until the device shuts off — then press Stop to save. Philips (most SRP models) works like the GE flow. When in doubt, the sequence is always the same idea: enter setup, pick the device, cycle codes, lock it in.
One remote for TV and soundbar
The feature nobody reads far enough to find: volume lock (GE calls it master volume control). Program the TV under the TV key and the soundbar under AUD, then lock volume to the audio device — from then on the volume keys always drive the soundbar no matter what you are controlling. That single setting is the difference between a remote the household actually uses and one that gets thrown in the drawer with the others. If you loved your Logitech Harmony: they stopped making them in 2021, but existing ones still work and the app still runs — keep it until it dies.
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More guides: Samsung & LG remote fixes · Apple TV remote fixes · Soundbar not playing TV audio
Quick answers
The light blinks four times and gives up.
On RCA-style remotes that means the code list ran out without a match — usually the wrong device key was selected, or the device is one the remote's list doesn't cover. Start over and make sure you tapped the right key (TV vs AUD vs STR).
It powers the TV but some buttons do nothing.
Normal, unfortunately. Universal codes map the common functions; deep menu keys don't always come across. If a code works but is missing keys, keep stepping — several codes often match one TV, and a later one may map more buttons.
Can a universal remote run my Roku?
Roku boxes and Roku TVs that have an IR receiver, yes — there are codes for them. Roku Sticks and anything that only listens over radio, no. Same story for Fire TV Sticks.
Which universal remote should I buy for my rental units?
A current GE 4-device from any big-box store covers TV + soundbar + cable in nearly every unit, costs under $15, and survives guests. We standardize them across vacation rentals for exactly that reason — one laminated instruction card works for every unit.
Is programming worth paying someone for?
For one remote, do it yourself with the guide above. For a property with many units — or a drawer of remotes replaced by one — it's a 30-minute visit that guests stop calling you about. That math is yours to do.